Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents an innovative eco-friendly natural solvents

A leading initiative by Gattefossé.

Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES) have empowered Gattefossé to create eco-friendly natural solvents for cosmetics and plant extractions. Through extensive research, NaDES have yielded user-friendly, stable extracts with unique phytochemical content and enhanced biological efficacy compared to conventional extracts.  

In recent years, the demand for natural cosmetics has surged in response to increased environmental awareness and consumer expectations. The cosmetics industry faces growing pressure to provide sustainable, naturally sourced raw materials. The principles of Green Chemistry, which aim to minimize waste and pollution while using renewable resources, have amplified the importance of sustainability.  

Solvents play a crucial role in Green Chemistry

Gattefossé, a specialist in developing plant extracts for personal care applications, is leading the charge. To create these plant extracts, a suitable solvent is required—one that can dissolve and extract materials without altering their chemical composition. This is where NaDES come into play.  

Gattefossé’s expertise centers on extracting secondary metabolites from plants, which are vital for a plant’s survival and possess significant biological activity potential. However, finding natural solvents with high extraction capabilities, devoid of regulatory or toxicological concerns, posed a challenge. The answer lay within the plants themselves.  

Within plant cells, there exists an aqueous phase in the cytosol and an oily phase in the membrane. While this is ideal for dissolving primary metabolites, the challenge lies in the extraction of secondary metabolites with intermediate polarity. Collaborating with Pr R. Verpoorte, Gattefossé unveiled the NaDES technology—a novel type of solvent composed of mixtures of sugars, amino acids, organic acids, and bases in specific ratios. These NaDES can solubilize water-insoluble compounds and enable the biosynthesis of various beneficial plant compounds.  

Scientific literature reports several stable NaDES, primarily comprising primary metabolites such as organic acids, amino acids, and sugars. These mixtures can replace conventional organic solvents due to their high extraction potential and stability. However, only a few NaDES can be employed in cosmetics due to safety and regulatory concerns.  

Exploring cosmetic-compatible

Gattefossé embarked on its NaDES journey in 2012, focusing on designing NaDES mixtures compatible with cosmetic applications and assessing their extraction performance against conventional solvents. After carefully selecting safe compounds in line with cosmetic regulations, a low-energy heating and stirring process was employed to create clear, stable, and homogeneous liquids at room temperature. Water was added to fine-tune the properties of these liquids, enhancing their physicochemical attributes without compromising the hydrogen bond network.  

Characterization of these ternary mixtures revealed the crucial role of water in forming stable NaDES, demonstrating their “supramolecular structure.” These crafted NaDES proved to be microbiologically safe, compatible with cosmetic formulations, and well-tolerated by human skin cells. Six of the most promising NaDES were patented and scaled up for industrial production, supported by investments in equipment.  

Gattefossé has since introduced seven fully biobased liquid extracts based on NaDES technology. One such product, an FGW115 extract of horse chestnut flowers, displayed remarkable biological activity, particularly in boosting collagen IV synthesis—a key component for skin health. This NaDES FGW115 extract outperformed conventional extracts, underscoring its potential in anti-aging applications.  

Aligned with ecodesign principles

NaDES technology not only unlocks new phytochemical compounds but also aligns with eco-design principles by eliminating the need for purification and concentration steps to remove conventional solvents. These NaDES extracts offer naturalness, stability, safety, and extraction specificity, fostering innovation in creating highly effective and safer natural active ingredients.  

However, NaDES extracts in liquid form come with certain drawbacks, including the need for suitable containers and potential instability. To address this, Gattefossé collaborated with an academic laboratory to explore the gelation of these liquid extracts using natural polysaccharides, as described in a recently published PhD thesis. The resulting gels demonstrated improved stability, opening new possibilities for preservative-free jellified supramolecular plant extracts.  

In conclusion, NaDES technology, born from the fusion of biobased chemicals and water, offers a transformative path for plant extraction. These ready-to-use extracts not only expedite the discovery of skin health benefits but also hold promise for solid-like extracts without preservatives, making strides towards a more sustainable and innovative future.  

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